With a population of 2.5 million, Medan is the largest city of Sumatra and the 5th largest city of Indonesia. Indonesia got its name from Indo (India) and ‘nesia’ which is ‘island’ as in Polynesia, Micronesia etc. So it means ‘islands near India’.
Bridget and I had arrived at Medan International airport the day before the start of our Intrepid Sumatra jungle adventure which gave us the opportunity to spend a day exploring the city before the welcome meeting at 6 pm. We also had time at the end of the Intrepid trip due to our evening departure flight.
It was easy to get a taxi from the airport from the official transport stand. This was just IDR250,000 (about £10) for the hour long journey to our hotel in the middle of Medan.
Located on the Strait of Malacca, Medan is a historical trading city. In contrast with Singapore, Medan is more industrial than touristic so there somewhat less to see! However we did get to visit a cultural mansion, a palace, a mosque, a historic restaurant and an ultra modern shopping mall!
Self guided tour of Medan
Having arrived from Singapore the night before, after breakfast the following morning Bridget and I stepped outside our centrally located Medan hotel into the heat. Armed with Google maps, we negotiated the traffic, the lack of pavements and the general mayhem of the city as we walked to our first stop which was the 19th century Tjong A Fie Mansion. Google suggested this would be a ‘cultural jewel blending Chinese, Malay and Art Deco styles!’
We paid our entrance fee of IDR35,000 (£1.45) and, for an additional tip, a guide took us on a tour of the house. This colourful 35 room mansion was built in 1895 and belonged to Tjong A Fie, a Chinese immigrant who came to own much of the land in Medan with his plantations.
Tjong A Fie was a popular figure as he “generously gave his time, energy and wealth” to local residents of Medan.
The house contained traditional colonial Portuguese, Dutch, English and Chinese influences for the architectural style and the furniture. These influences would also have been present in the dishes prepared and served in the formal dining room.
From the Chinese mansion we walked across the street for a couple of minutes to Tip Top restaurant which was established in 1934. This place is famous for its bakery however it also served local and international main dishes and ice creams. On this occasion, we just had a drink and Bridget had a cake in the air conditioned ‘inside’ section above.
We were in Kesawan which is the old district of Medan city centre. This area has many historical buildings which date back to the era before the independence of Indonesia. On Sundays, this area is designated a traffic-free zone (we were there on a Friday). With wide pavements this part of Medan was much more walkable!
Following coffee we continued through Kesawan towards Merdeka walk and the Merdeka Square. This area is lined with heritage buildings such as the London Sumatera building which is an office block.
Much of this infrastructure was built during the Colonial period of the Dutch East Indies when in the 1860’s the city was transformed from a small village to the largest city of Sumatra. After 350 years of Dutch rule, Indonesia gained independence from the Dutch in 1945.
These buildings line Merdeka Square which is a popular recreational space for hosting events, taking a stroll and contains activities for children.
The distinctive Medan Post Office was established in 1911 during the Dutch colonial period. You can visit and see the impressive displays of stamp collections and historical artefacts such as old typewriters and telecoms equipment.
This landmark in the heart of the city still operates as a post office.
We walked back towards Merdeka Square thinking we were near a shopping centre. We crossed a bridge over the railway line near to the station but couldn’t find it.
Instead we passed a large Chinese style building.
Not quite sure where we were, next on our agenda was the Maimum Palace which would have taken us about 40 minutes to walk (in 32 degrees) so we decided a quicker form of transport was in order.
10 seconds later a tuk tuk driver appeared and charged us 20,000 IDR (80p) for the 10 minute ride.
We were whisked off through the streets of Medan weaving through the traffic before arriving at Maimun Palace.
Located in the historic centre of the Deli Sultanate district, Maimun Palace is a 30-room structure built by the sultan of Deli in 1888. Close up it looks grand however the surrounding gardens are not maintained and gave it a scruffy and unkept vibe.
We paid a small fee, removed our shoes and entered this bright yellow structure. Inside, as well as outside, it was somewhat underwhelming as it was packed with stalls selling souvenirs. We could only enter the main room with the throne (as above). This is palace is one to skip if you are short on time in Medan!
Completed in 1909, nearby was the Great Mosque of Medan. The architecture of this mosque has influences from the Middle East, India and Europe.
There was no entrance fee but we had to leave a small donation and sign in the registry book. We were allowed to take photos inside the impressive structure of the mosque.
Bridget and I were not able to enter the mosque without the ‘proper’ Islamic head covering. I had my own head covering (as purchased in India) in my bag with me but unfortunately this wasn’t allowed.
From the mosque we walked back for 20 minutes or so, again dodging traffic, holes, cracked pavements, no pavements and arrived in our hotel for a late lunch.
Swiss Bellinn Hotel
We spent a total of 3 nights in the comfortable Swiss Belinn Hotel (1 x pre-trip; 1 at the beginning of the trip and 1 at the end). Our rooms were clean and comfortable and the staff were lovely and friendly. Breakfast had a fairly extensive choice of local dishes, local fruits and local cakes, as well as eggs, toast etc.
Dining in the hotel
I was familiar with Bintang, the local Indonesian beer from my previous visit to Indonesia over 10 years ago! This was cool and refreshing after our self guided walking tour.
Another Indonesian favourite, Nasi Goreng is a rice based dish which is served with chicken or vegetables or in this case, with seafood. It comes with an egg on the top.
Later that evening, in the company of our new Intrepid friends, I decided on a snack and ordered Bakwan Goreng, an Indonesian vegetable fritter dish. In Sumatra they are called ‘Bakwan Sumatra’ and are made with denser filling of potatoes and carrots and served with a delicious warm peanut and tamarind style sauce.
The total bill for the huge portion of Bakwan Goreng and a Bintang was 127,000 IDR or £5.33 and this included a service charge!
Intrepid meeting
Following our self guided Medan expedition at the 6 pm welcome meeting we met our guide Abdul and our 8 new Intrepid friends. We spent the rest of the evening getting to know them over dinner and another Bintang or two in the hotel.
For the Intrepid ‘Sumatra Adventure’ trip please see the next few up and coming posts!
*****
Back in Medan
Our Intrepid Adventure finished with a final night, 9 days later, back in the Swiss Belinn Hotel in Medan.
Bridget and I had a return visit to Tip Top restaurant as Abdul, our Intrepid tour leader had booked a table for our group farewell dinner there. For this second visit Bridget and I both had Gado Gado which is a traditional Indonesian dish of vegetables covered in peanut sauce.
At the end of the evening we had said goodbye to the rest of the group, most of whom had early flights. As our flight was to depart the following evening, we had a few more hours in Medan.
Our last day in Medan
After breakfast, we re-packed ready to travel home, left our main luggage stored in the hotel and set off by motorcycle tuk tuk to the Sun Plaza Mall.
We were dropped off at the Mall which is next to Medan’s Little India.
I was anticipating a scruffy rundown mall with busy shops crammed with stuff and people. But I was hugely surprised when we entered the Mall and it was immaculately clean, had a pleasant smell, had soft ‘shopping’ music and a range of top designer shops!
The centre of the Mall was a little more chaotic with a few stalls. Outside it was 33 degrees so we appreciated the cool AC in the mall.
At the top level of the mall as well as an insanely loud amusement arcade, a large selection of eateries can be found. This included Pan & Co, a Japanese fluffy pancake place! These looked tempting so we decided, in the interests of exploring some Japanese culture, it would be best to try them! Mine was a ‘Tiramisu Baby’: fluffy pancakes with tiramisu cream, espresso coffee sauce, coco powder, a strawberry and a bowl of vanilla ice cream 🙂
The large fluffy pancakes were served with a plastic outer covering and as you slowly lift it off the cream oozes down the side of the pancakes. These were really delicious and especially so if you are someone with a sweet tooth!
We left the Mall via the drop off entrance.
In search of a skybar, we walked to the rather grand looking Hotel Adimulia which was nearby.
There was no skybar but we were able to order cocktails from a bar on the ground floor. I was pleasantly surprised by my Margarita which tasted fairly good! Not the absolute best but not too bad so worthy of a 7/10.
Bridget and I took a motorcycle tuk tuk back to the Hotel Swiss Belinn where we spent the final hour with a final Bintang before our flights home.
Sumatra Adventures are up next…
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