Set in the midst of the volcanos and highlands of northern Sumatra, the town of Berastagi was our base for the next two nights. Berastagi is located at an elevation of around 1,300 m which meant the daytime temperatures were a comfortable 23 degrees. Due to these cooler temperatures, 100 years ago, the Dutch built their retreat villas in Berastagi to escape the hot and humid weather of Medan.
Situated along the Pacific Ring of Fire, Indonesia has over 400 volcanoes in total and is one of the only two countries of the world which sits on 4 tectonic plates, the other being Japan. Close to Berastagi are two active volcanoes: Gunung (mountain) Sibayak and Gunung Sinabung.
After an early 7 am breakfast our Intrepid group left the hotel at about 7.40 am for our 20 minute drive to the start of our Gunung Sibayak climb.
We split into two groups of 5 and experienced an extreme and intense bone-shaking ride where we were literally thrown around in the back of the van’s! Gripping on tightly so as not to fall out of the open door!
Following registration at the entrance, Geleng, our volcano trek guide began to lead the way. The walk began with a steep road section which then flattened out a bit.
Along the way, Geleng pointed out flora and fauna. For example, the dark sap coming from these acacia trees is used as the glue in local house construction.
These green hanging pitcher plants are one of several species of pitcher which can be found on Mount Sibayak.
We came to the end of the tarmac road and had to scramble up a short and steep rocky path until we arrived at the ‘tree’ section. Geleng led us up this steep muddy path through trees and tree roots which reminded me of mangroves.
Geleng’s dog Jonny accompanied us throughout the entire trek and similar to Ziggy in St Vincent, he ensured his pack stayed together, always a little in front or just behind and having a little lie down each time we stopped.
As we left the trees behind, panoramic views began to open up and we could see Mount Sinabung in the distance.
At an elevation of 2,460 m Mount Sinabung has been very active in the last few years, particularly in 2013 and 2014 which means it is no longer safe to climb.
Wild flowers and tropical plants lined the footpath.
A bit more scrambling needed in places…
As we climbed higher we reached the steam vents (fumaroles) with gases escaping from the active volcano. Most of our group made the short rocky climb for a closer look at this one, but didn’t stay for too long close to the poisonous egg smelling sulphur fumes.
Including Bridget and me.
Geleng led 7 of us higher up towards the summit of Mount Sibayak and the views became even more magnificent.
None of us went to the summit and the above photo was taken at the highest point we got to before we made the return journey back down the same route.
On the way back Abdul our Intrepid guide explained this is an edible flower.
Once we had descended the two minibuses took us to a nearby village at the foot of the volcano for our picnic lunch. We’ve discovered that picnics in Sumatra tend to be Indonesian hot food buffets which contain vegetable curry, rice, tofu and/or tempah, chicken and prawn crackers. In fact this, with the addition of noodles, is the staple of breakfast, lunch and dinner!
After lunch we were back in the Intrepid minibus and driven round the corner for 5 minutes to the hot springs. Each pool has a different temperature and they were all very hot! Only 3 of our group of 10 ventured into the hot springs.
From the hot springs we were driven the short distance back to the hotel for the rest of the afternoon.
Fruit market
Berastagi has a large fruit market containing a wide range of tropical fruits.
This is a mangosteen which is native to Southeast Asia. It is, apparently, also known as a queen fruit as Queen Victoria had a liking for them. They are high in antioxidants and good for supporting the immune system.
In Berastagi we had the opportunity for express laundry and most of us dropped off a bag. For only IDR30,000 (£1.25) for a 7 kg load, this was ready 3 hours later, helpfully collected from the laundry place by our Intrepid driver.
Accommodation
Named after the volcano the Sinabung Hills hotel was our Berastagi base for 2 nights. We were delighted to have a large, airy and spacious twin room. As well as a swimming pool and extensive tropical gardens, this hotel had a modern coffee shop which sold delicious peach iced teas!
Food
We had dinner in the hotel Sinabung Hills on the first night. We’ve found that our drinks and food arrived randomly and in no particular order. Not just in here but everywhere. A couple of mains may appear before half the group has had their drink served. Or two people could order the same dish but one gets theirs 40 minutes before the other. Tonight I enjoyed sweet and sour prawns with rice which was tasty.
The following evening our mini bus drove us into town to I’Baz, a karaoke coffee shop, although the grating and screeching of the karaoke was ear piercing!
However the Mie Hun Goreng (means fried noodles) was good and and warm chocolate lava cake for dessert was lush. These two courses together with a jasmine tea was just IDR74000 (£3.08).
Summary
The Mount Sibayak trek was another spectacular highlight of this brilliant trip. Next we travel to Lake Toba and Samosir Island.
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