Together with Russell and Roza, Chris and I returned to Siena to undertake another section of Italy’s Via Francigena ‘Road to Rome’. This time we spent 6 days walking from Siena to Bolsena which enabled us to ‘fill the gap’ of the missing section between Lucca and Rome.
For details of the Bolsena to Rome section (May 2022)
For details of the Lucca to Siena section (May 2023)
This year we did:
- Day 1: Siena to Buonconvento
- Day 2: Buonconvento to San Quirico d’Orcia
- Day 3: San Quirico d’Orcia to Agriturismo La Selvella
- Day 4: Agriturismo La Selvella to Radicofani (half day)
- Day 5: Radicofani to Acquapendente
- Day 6: Acquapendente to Bolsena
Getting to Siena
Having landed courtesy of EasyJet from London Gatwick we arrived early on a Saturday morning to a sunny Pisa.
For 18 euros per person we took the PisaMover to Pisa train station and with a change at Empoli we arrived at Siena station at lunchtime.
Siena is the largest of the Italian Tuscany hilltop towns and we had forgotten the 10 or so escalators which take you, via a shopping mall, from the station platform to the streets of Siena high up on the hill above.
We were delighted to have perfect weather which was 25 degrees and sunny rather than the rain we had in Siena last year.
As we walked through the streets in search of our hotel a classic car show was taking place. Cars were driven slowly through the city and were greeted by small cheers of watching spectators.
Piazza del Campo is the main square in the heart of Siena and is considered to be one of the greatest medieval squares of Europe. Twice a year (on 2nd July and 16th August) a horse race called ‘Palio di Siena’ takes place where 10 riders race their horses bareback around the edge of the square. This tradition dates back to the 17th century.
Leaving Chris resting in the hotel during the afternoon I went off exploring. I thought about visiting the cathedral until I found it was going to cost over 17 euros! I only wanted to pop in! But you had to buy a multi attraction ticket which I didn’t have time for.
Instead I had a look in a different large nearby church which was free.
As were delicious samples in a delightful chocolate shop! I was given several things to try including a lemoncello chocolate ball, a shot of actual lemoncello and some melt-in-your-mouth cappucino biscuits which were the best ever!
We stayed for one night in Il Giardino de Pantaneto which had comfortable rooms, a great shower and a really tasty breakfast. With its central location close to the Piazza del Campo we would recommend a stay there.
In the early evening before meeting Russell & Roza, Chris and I went on a mission for him to purchase some new walking boots. Thankfully he found some comfy sturdy trail shoes for the week of walking ahead.
The buildings took on a golden hue as the sun was setting over the city.
Siena is busy on a Saturday night and if you want to visit a particular restaurant then pre-booking a table is strongly advised.
We tried a couple of recommended places but were turned away as they were both full. Instead we walked into a random out of the way restaurant and had a tasty dinner sitting outside in a pleasant courtyard setting.
Starting the walk on day 1
After breakfast the following morning having left our main luggage ready for Sloways, our luggage transfer company to collect, Chris, Russell, Roza and me walked for a couple of minutes to Piazza del Campo to begin our third section of walking the Via Francigena.
As explained in previous years, the Via Francigena is an ancient long distance pilgrim trail which starts in Canterbury and ends in Rome. We had our ‘VF passports’ with us, ready to collect more stamps along the way.
Russell and I went into the town hall building on the Piazza del Campo to get our Siena stamps and it was quite exciting to see nuns entering the attached commune.
Keen to get on our way, we left the Piazza del Campo and began walking through the cobbled streets looking out for VF way markers. We noticed cast iron rings line the walls of many of the buildings and we understood these would have been for tying animals such as horses to the wall to prevent them from wandering off.
Finding our way!
We left the historic centre of Siena through the gate.
The route then took us past a psychiatric hospital.
And then to another large city gate to fully exit Siena.
On the outskirts of Siena we passed gardens where fruit such as figs, Sharon fruit and walnut trees were growing in the mild climate of Toscana, the Italian name for the region of Tuscany.
We were soon out of the city and into the rolling Tuscan countryside.
We came across the grand Certosa hotel complex which had lovely views and a large historic courtyard and we made a mental note to consider this as a place to stay while on a possible future Italian road trip.
Just past the Certosa hotel we continued walking along a quiet road with little traffic.
Past olive groves
Leaving Siena further and further behind.
As well as a couple of cafes we found two or 3 water fountains along this section of the VF to fill our water bottles.
Generally much of today was open and with little shade and in pleasant sunny 24 degrees this meant plenty of water, sun cream and a hat was essential.
We came across a memorial for the Santa Lucia church which dated back to the 14th century. Over the years, the church was reduced to a simple chapel before disappearing completely when when the state road was built. Residents of nearby Isola d’Arbia gather here once a year in memory.
Two hours in at Isola d’Arbia we stopped in this cafe for a coffee break. This was the first time we came across other pilgrims also walking the Via Francigena.
Not much shade today and now 26 degrees.
The guide book mentioned this section to be ‘one of the most charming of the Tuscan Via Francigena route’.
We found a slither of shade for a lunch stop as we sat on the edge of a pallet behind a hay stack!
We eventually reached Ponte d’Arbia which is the official end of this stage. We stopped here for about 40 minutes in a bar and had a refreshing drink and snack.
However as I hadn’t been able to find accommodation in Ponte d’Arbia we still had over an hour to walk until we got to Buonconvento where we were to be staying.
The brown landscape of today gave a different feel from the other two VF trips which were both in May where the landscapes were green and awash with colourful wild flowers.
The name of the colour ‘Sienna brown’ comes from the ‘earthy tones’ of Siena. A reddish brown shade is called ‘Burnt Siena’.
Unlike in the spring, this time the grapes were ready for harvest
At last we could see our accommodation, the Agriturismo Percenna on a hill in the distance.
But first we arrived in Buonconvento which had some kind of festival happening.
After walking for 20 miles today we had one last major effort up the hill to Agriturismo Percenna.
An old farmhouse building, Agriturismo Percenna was in a gorgeous location with 360 degree views across the surrounding Tuscan landscape.
It was a huge relief to finally enter our room, remove our boots and have a shower before our evening meal.
We met Russell & Roza in the bar of the farmhouse and had a drink before dinner.
Tonight I had mixed vegetables with local pecorino cheese.
This was the first time we tried amaro! Rather than lemoncello which was the plan we were recommended by the bar man to try amaro, a locally produced herbal liquor instead. This tasted bitter sweet and was a lovely end to the day.
frombluetogreen.com 
Beautiful!!
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Thank you 🙂
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