For the fourth year running Chris and I have just returned from a wonderful week in Wales with our lovely friends Yvey & Matt. We began our annual week in Wales in 2020 when we were unable to travel far and we were restricted by the Covid rule of 6.
This time our group had expanded and tweaked a bit as we were joined by Russ, Cindy & Jon, Steve and Leigh. And having spent a week in North Pembrokeshire in 2020, a week in Anglesey in 2021 and a week in South Pembrokeshire in 2022, this year for 2023 we found different corner of Wales to explore.
We were based in southern Snowdonia on the west coast in the middle of nowhere about 10 miles west of Dolgellau (pronounced Dol-geth-lie) overlooking the Mawddach Estuary. We were staying only 3 miles from Barmouth but that is if you walk across the footbridge over the estuary. Driving to Barmouth involves a trip right around the estuary which takes 45 minutes.
As mentioned the cottage was remote and it was quite a mission to get there. The road to the cottage began with a 25% gradient narrow single track road with stone walls on each side and few passing places.
Next we had to stop and open and then close 5 gates each time and make our way along carefully whilst ensuring not to run any sheep over.
But when we arrived at the cottage the view over the estuary towards Barmouth was spectacular!
We rented the cottage for a week and from this base this was our itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive at 5 pm and dinner in the Mawddach Pizza restaurant
Day 2: A 9 mile walk to Barmouth and back
Day 3: Rhaeadr Nantcol Waterfalls and Harlech Beach (featured image of this post)
Day 4: Precipice walk and Cregennan Lake walk
Day 5: Dolgoch Waterfalls, Aberdovey and Bearded Lake
Day 6: Cycled the Mawddach Trail
Day 7: An 8 mile circular hike around Llyn Padarn
Day 8: drive home
For our first evening we had pre-booked a table for 9 at the Mawddach pizza near Dolgellau. At the time we had no idea the cottage would be so remote and it would be so time-consuming to drive anywhere. However the pizzas in this restaurant were excellent and it was a great start to the week.
Local walks
There were several walks from where you could begin from the front door of the cottage. Having basked in sunny weather and hot temperatures throughout June, the forecast for the whole week (1st to 8th July) was terrible with temperatures of about 16 degrees and heavy rain predicted for each day.
Walk to Barmouth
However in spite of the weather forecast, for our first full day, we decided to walk the 3 miles to Barmouth. Barmouth is the other side of the estuary and the walk from the cottage to Barmouth takes over an hour and involves walking across the footbridge over the estuary.
The walk had began along the road for a short distance before we turned left next to a stream. We then passed through some fields, through some boggy areas and next to some bracken before a steep muddy trail through the woods. Thankfully the mud was dry!
The Mawddach Estuary was getting closer and the footbridge was ahead!
Once we had finished the steep wooded section the footpath led us next to a farm with some pretty hydrangeas along the route. Next we had to cross the (not very busy) A493 before continuing through more fields until we came to the bridge.
Barmouth Bridge carries the Cambrian Coast Line which is a railway line running between Aberystwyth and Pwllheli. The bridge is 820 meters long and thankfully also has a footbridge running alongside it. The bridge was first opened in 1867 and is the longest timber viaduct in Wales.
The Mawddach River is only 28 miles long with its source located in the mountains of Snowdonia. Once it passes Dolgellau it opens up into a wide and sandy estuary.
Once we had crossed the bridge (and dodged the cyclists) we arrived immediately into Barmouth. Barmouth is a seaside town in the south of Snowdonia and has mountains on one side and huge golden sandy beaches on the other.
We spent some time wandering around Barmouth with its selection of shops, pubs and typical seaside attractions.
We happened to be in Barmouth for the annual kite festival which provided a colourful spectacle on the beach
Barmouth has a street market every Thursday and on Sundays and Bank Holidays during the summer.
While in Barmouth we had a tasty meal of Welsh vegetarian sausages in the atmospheric Last Inn pub, located next to the harbour. This set us up for our return back to the cottage and the steep hike back up the hill!
While a bit overcast, the weather had remained dry for the day 🙂
Walk to Cregennan Lake
During the afternoon of day 4, 4 of us set off from the cottage and walked along the quiet roads, past the sheep and through the gates for a couple of miles to the picturesque Cregennan Lake.
Having had enough of walking the Precipice Trail earlier in the day the others had met us at the Lake with the cars!
Cycle Trail
The Mawddrach trail is a 9 mile long dis-used railway line which follows the south side of the estuary between Dolgellau and the mouth of the river at Barmouth. 8 of us decided to rent bikes from a cycle hire shop in Dolgellau and cycle the path towards Barmouth.
From the cottage we drove to Dolgellau and rented the bikes from Dolgellau Cycles for £15 per bike for 4 hours. This was a spur of the moment decision and we hadn’t reserved the bikes but thankfully there was enough for us to take them there and then.
The bikes were of good quality and the trail was flat which made for an easy cycle ride.
We cycled past the Penmaenpool Toll Bridge, a bridge we had also driven across a couple of days before. This bridge costs £1 per car and cuts a few minutes off the road journey between the cottage and Barmouth. Penmaenpool Bridge was the scene of a disaster in July 1966 when it was hit by a ferry and 15 people of the 39 passengers drowned.
On the way back we stopped for refreshments in the George III pub at Penmaenpool.
Later on the evening of the bike ride we all returned to the George III pub for dinner. There were no pubs in walking distance from the cottage and on this occasion Cindy had booked a mini bus there and back from the cottage which gave us a few hours to relax and enjoy a few drinks and a meal together without anyone having to drive.
Summary
Firstly a lesson learned: take no notice of the weather forecast! We were predicted to have an entire week of non stop heavy rain yet we didn’t get wet a single time. During the course of the week it rained twice: once in the morning before we went out for the day and one evening while we were getting ready to go out. For the first week of July the temperatures were not quite as hot as last year but the weather turned out much better than anticipated.
This was also one of the most remote UK places we’ve ever stayed in (although camping in Mull in the Scottish Inner Hebrides was pretty remote too) and we had incredible views. Both of these elements added a different dimension to the holiday.
Despite the remoteness of the cottage we had a fairly action packed week and visited some new and interesting places. More on our activities will be covered in the next few blog posts…
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