Via Francigena: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma


We left our fabulous Le Terrecotte Sutri accommodation after breakfast and set off for another long day of walking. On this day we had some confusion on where to start the walk as there is often more than one route to follow. Firstly there is a cycle Via Francigena route (the blue route) and also there may be different options for the walking (red) route.

Using a combination of the Via Francigena app, the guide books and sign posts we decided to avoid roads as much as possible and headed off. Of the entire route, the majority was either on tracks or very quiet roads. This day started with a bit of road before becoming fields and pastureland.

Monterosi church

We came to Monterosi and at the first cafe we found we stopped for a coffee and a short break. Immediately after Monterosi we crossed over a busy duel carriageway and walked alongside it for half a km before turning into a long track.

Today was hot and this track seemed to go on forever with little shade.

Eventually we came to Monte Gelato Falls which was a huge relief! Monte Gelato Falls are a series of small waterfalls which form part of the Treja River and can be found in the Treji Valley Park.

We didn’t need to pay to enter the falls and we found a shady spot where we could sit at the edge and dangle our tired feet into the cool refreshing water. This was also a lovely picnic spot to tuck into our delicious local focaccia bread, cheese, olives and tomatoes. And a piece of homemade cake the kind owners B & B owners from this morning insisted we take with us.

View from our picnic spot
Monte Gelato Falls

Being a mid-week day, the Monte Gelato Falls was fairly quiet with just a few people dotted around.


From the falls, the route took us along another long and open road, again with little shade until we reached a section where we passed through a pretty wooded and orchard area.

Campagnano di Roma

Finally Campagnano di Roma came into view! What a relief after the toughest day so far of the trip. But it wasn’t over yet… Campagnano di Roma is situated on the top of a small hill and we had a short but very steep climb to reach it. Thankfully we were greeted at the top by a cooling water fountain where we stopped for a few minutes.

In the centre of Campagnano di Roma we found a bar and rewarded ourselves with a refreshing drink to celebrate the end of today’s walk. As we relaxed in the shade of the bar canopy, Canadian Dave with his huge backpack and gear walked past but he was a bit concerned as he had lost Maria! It turned out that they had taken different routes and he had to seek assistance from his accommodation to go and rescue her!

One litre of Sangiovese for 2.50 euros!

Our accommodation was situated just outside the gate of the old town in a lively little square and the two Dutch guys were also staying there. This was an odd place… a hotel above a pizza restaurant and probably the least desirable of the trip. The room was dark and a bit dated but as we only had one night it wasn’t a big deal. And it was luxury compared with some of the places Chris and I have stayed in on past trips!

In the early evening together with Russell & Roza we set out to find a bar. We came across Canadian Dave again, this time enjoying his Prosecco in a wine bar. This wine bar was fab! We were able to purchase a litre of delicious red wine for just 5 euros! (Take-away price if you bring your own container is only 2.50 euros).

Due to there being an important football match and as Italians are passionate about football, everything then closed down promptly at 8 pm! Bars and restaurants were all closed and we were unable to get a meal anywhere.

Thankfully a pizza takeaway was open and we waited as they were freshly cooked to our specific requirements. Clutching our huge pizza boxes we returned to our hotel and sat at a table in their closed restaurant tucking in. The pizzas were only 11 euros each and there was enough left over for tomorrows lunch.

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