Cattolica and Gradara

Anticipating a relaxed seaside resort where we could sit in the sun with a cocktail each, Bridget and I set off by train from our base in Rimini to arrive in Cattolica 15 minutes later.

The first place we came to was Cattolica’s Town Hall (top photo) which is located in the pleasant Piazza Roosevelt.

But first, keen to get out into the countryside and explore an Italian hill top village rather than the towns and cities of the trip so far we discovered Gradara fitted this description and is a short distance from Cattolica.

After a visit to the Cattolica tourist information centre and a delicious coffee and bite sized pastry in Staccoli coffee shop we took bus 130 from Cattolica to Gradara. This was €2 (coins only) per person and you pay into a machine as you get on the bus.

We were dropped by the bus in Gradara village and then walked for 10 minutes up the steep hill where we came to a shop to purchase our €10 per person castle entrance tickets.

At the top of a hill at 143 meters above sea level Gradara castle can be seen from afar rising high above lush countryside of vineyards and olive trees.

Gradara Castle was built in 1150 by the de Griffo family then it was passed to the Malatesta family who built the 800 meter long surrounding wall.

There was only a couple of other tourists so we had the castle pretty much to ourselves. First up was the gruesome torture chamber!

We then made our way through different rooms of the castle which had been carefully restored and had lots of information to read in English as well as Italian.

The tragic story of Paolo and Francesca…

Briefly…

Francesca was the daughter of the Lord of Ravenna and Cervia who had arranged her marriage to Giovanni (Gianciotto) Malatesta.

Gianciotto (the lame) was brother of Paolo Malatesta (the handsome). To avoid resistance from Francesca she was tricked into marrying Gianciotto instead of Paolo.

To comply with the wishes of her father Francesca moved to Gradara Castle with husband Gianciotto where she lived as a recluse.

But… handsome Paolo and the beautiful Francesca had a secret 18 year affair behind the back of Gianciotto who she was forced to marry.

The Malatesta brothers had a younger brother who for some reason decided to inform Gianciotto of the affair. Gianciotto pretended to visit Pesaro a city he governed but instead he hid and waited for his brother Paolo to visit his wife.

Catching the two lovers together he killed them both with a swipe of his sword.

Poet Dante was around at the same time and preserved the story in his Divine Comedy poem with pity for Francesca and Paolo and condemnation for Giangiotto.

We continued making our way through the medieval fortress where paintings and frescoes decorated the walls.

As mentioned the castle has panoramic views across rolling countryside.

Unfortunately the walk around the ramparts surrounding the castle was closed.

We spent a couple of hours in Gradara before getting the bus back to Cattolica.

We had a wander around Cattolica but unfortunately 95% of the hotels were shut and there wasn’t much happening. The wide sandy beach was desolate and everything was locked up.

In the summer this blue flag beach would come alive with colourful beach umbrellas lined up in order and sheltering the thousands of tourists.

The Mermaid Statue was created in 1928 by sculpter Guiseppe Casalini and it is illuminated at night. While quiet during the day apparently this area really comes to life in the evenings and in the summer when events are held.

Sadly the main tree lined street was also empty. Again, in the summer this will be the place to come for traditional piadinas (flat breads) filled with grilled sardines, a popular snack.

Summary

We enjoyed visiting the interesting castle at Gradara but I think Cattolica may be more of a summer resort. And also we were there in mid afternoon siesta time which could be another reason for it being so quiet and for most things being shut.