Visiting Bologna

Famous for its bolognese sauce and for being the home of the oldest university in Europe, Bologna is the 7th largest city in Italy and capital of the Emilia-Romagna region in the north of the country.

Bridget and I were en-route to Rimini which was to be our base of discovery for a week. But as we had arrived during late morning and as it was so easy and quick to get from Bologna airport to Bologna city centre we decided to spend the afternoon in this famous city before heading off to Rimini.

The left luggage at Bologna central train station was our first stop to enable Bridget to deposit her small case for 4 hours. This was very straightforward and was €6 per luggage piece.

As mentioned, Bologna is famous for its food but this would wait for a week. As well as this first afternoon visit we finished our week with a second afternoon in Bologna on the way back from Rimini. This post rolls both short half day Bologna visits into one.

With a few hours at our disposal we headed towards Piazza Maggiore and the old town. Following Google Maps the 20 minute walk from the central station to the old town was somewhat uninspiring which wasn’t helped by the grey sky and threat of drizzle.

For the second visit the following week we walked along Via dell’Indipenza towards the old town which was better (even though this Saturday afternoon was as grey and rainy as the first).

Another claim to fame for Bologna is the vast network of porticoes! These covered walkways are unique to the architecture of the city and there are over 40 kms of them. They form lengthy porches and offer shade from the weather.

The bronze statue of Neptune, the ‘Fontana del Nettuno’ can be found in Piazza del Nettuno which is next to Piazza Maggiore. The fountain was completed in 1565 with the statue of the god Neptune being added a year later in 1566. The cherubs on each of the corners hold dolphins which represent the major rivers of the world as known at that time: the Nile, the Ganges, the Amazon and the Danube.

Located at Piazza Maggiore is the imposing 14th century Basilica di San Petronio which is dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Saint Petronius. Saint Petronius was the Bishop of Bologna in the 5th century. Construction of the basilica began in 1390 and the facade at the front is still unfinished.

Inside the Basilica di San Petronio is the 15th century wooden crucifix and there are 22 side chapels.

After looking around the Piazza di Nettuno and the Piazza Maggiore it was time for some refreshments.

And of course it was important to sample some local drinks so what better way than in the Bar Vittorio Emanuele overlooking the Basilica de San Petronio. Bridget had Aperol Spritz and I tried a Bologna Spritz made with Vermouth. These were 8 euros each which wasn’t too expensive given the location. And we were given a complementary bowl of crisps and a bowl of round snacks too.

After our short introduction to Bologna we headed back to the Central Station where we got a train to Rimini.

Our second visit…

Our second half day consisted of another cathedral, a tower, a quirky window and a fabulous traditional Bologna lunch.

The Reno Canal flows through the city and can be seen from a window. Without this window, this part of the canal would remain hidden from view. This part of Bologna is known as ‘Little Venice’ and the window is located on Via Piella.

Located along Via dell’Independenza is the Metropolitan Cathedral of San Pietro. From the outside it is quite easy to miss however once you go inside it is impressive.

This is baroque cathedral has been a place of worship for the people of Bologna since the 4th century. Following centuries of destruction and rebuild several times the current structure was built between the 16th and 18th centuries.

Hurrah a tower! At the San Pietro Cathedral is a bell tower which was open, there was no queue and the entry cost for the tower and the crypt was just €5. (Note: the tower is open between 2 – 4.30 pm on Saturdays).

We climbed to the top of the 55 m tower and the 360 degrees views over the red rooftops from the top were breathtaking.

At the top, as well as the views, we saw the huge bells. This is a ‘double bell tower’ which is rare as the 13th century external bell tower contains another one inside.

This looks towards the Piazza Maggiore and the Basilica di San Petronio.

The steps were old and worn however not too difficult. This section at the top was the only steep part, the rest of the steps were flat as they spiralled back down the tower.

From the base of the tower we walked a few meters to visit the crypt. The Crypt is the oldest part of the San Pietro Cathedral and dates back to the 16th century. There are archeological excavations at the crypt which are much older.

We had lunch in Il Passatello which had excellent reviews and is a place frequented by locals moreso than tourists.

When we arrived at 2 pm the restaurant was busy although it closes at 3 pm before re-opening each evening.

We both had ragu tagliatelle bolognese which (as a non-meat consumer) I considered important to try in the city where this dish originated from.

And of course a classic tirimisu for dessert. The food was authentic and delicious.

Getting to Bologne City Centre

The Marconi Express is a fast and convenient way of getting between the airport and Bologne Central station. The cost is €2.30 (£1.93) you tap with your card and the shuttle takes just a few minutes.

Summary

I had felt slightly underwhelmed during our first afternoon but thankfully our second visit revealed a couple of wow factors which significantly elevated my impressions of this famous city.

Climbing to the top of a tower is always an exciting thing for me and combined with a delicious lunch gave me some fond memories.

This confirmed that an afternoon in such a grand and historic place isn’t enough and a weekend to fully absorb the vibrant culture, sample more of the local food and explore more of the ancient narrow streets would be ideal.