Via Francigena: Agriturismo La Selvella to Radicofani

View from the pool of La Selvella

Agriturismo La Selvella is in a spectacular rural location with panoramic views across the Val d’Orcia and we had woken up to another beautiful sunny day.

View from the terrace next to our room

We had just 5 km of uphill walking today so we didn’t have to rush to get ready (although we did need to have our cases packed and ready by 8.30 am for Sloways, our luggage transfer company to collect).

Breakfast

We started the day with a leisurely and amazing breakfast at La Selvella with an array of fresh local and home cooked produce laid out in their lovely farmhouse building.

Breakfast room

There were two rooms full of breakfast treats, one had delicious savoury items and the other had home made cakes, fruit, croissants and other tasty goodies.

Cute little pony and a donkey

As a working farm there were several animals roaming around on the grounds including a couple of dogs, ponies, donkeys and even a pen of guinea pigs!

Radicofani in the distance

We left La Selvella at around 10.30 and as we started walking towards Radicofani we could see its fortress and tower perched at the top of the hill.

On the way to Radicofani
Steep ascent

As mentioned, it was all uphill this morning beginning with a section next to the road. The Via Francigena path then turned off the road and went through woodland and along a countryside track.

Arriving at Radicofani

After all of the climbing we reached the sticker covered sign for the town. At 814 m Radicofani is one of the highest points of the Tuscan section of the Via Francigena.

Entering Radicofani

We entered the historic dark stone buildings of Radicofani which was apparently once home to Italy’s Robin Hood!

Santa Maria church

We found the designated local shop and were surprised but pleased to find our main luggage had already been delivered. Every other time it is taken directly to our accommodation but this time as we were staying in apartments it was delivered to the shop.

View from our apartment

We were also grateful that the apartment owner had already whatsapped me with the key code meaning we were able to check in early.

We stayed in La Gioiosa apartments which were located in a historic building in the middle of the town. There was just 2 small apartments in the converted house and Russell & Roza had theirs on the first floor with Chris & me on the top floor.

Our quaint beamed apartment had a little kitchen area, a couple of gas rings, pots and pans and a fridge so it would be relatively easy to self cater.

Lunch

Chris and I enjoyed olives with fresh foccacia bread for lunch together with a glass of Prosecco (me) and a local craft beer (Chris). It was really pleasant sitting in the tiny but gorgeous Piazzetta del Teatro which was just round the corner from our apartment.

Town Hall

Earlier in the day upon arrival we had  collected our Radicofani pilgrim stamps from the town hall.

Radicofani

Due to its altitude (or possibly as it was also the end of September) the weather felt cooler at around 19 degrees for much of today.

Radicofani Fortress

In the afternoon I left Chris in the apartment and walked up the hill to the fortress which took about 20 minutes. The entrance fee was 5 euros and there was a handful of other people when I visited at about 4 pm.

Radicofani from the fortress tower

The fortress has stood overlooking Radicofani for over a thousand years and from the very top of the 37 m high tower you can see for miles across the Tuscan countryside.

Radicofani pasta

Tonight we had dinner in a lovely atmospheric wine bar called Al Tocco where the 4 of us all had locally hand made pasta. Chris and I both had tomato and garlic Tuscan sauce and it was delicious and possibly the best pasta ever.

This was washed down with a litre size jug of red wine and then we all shared a plate of 5 different local pecorini cheeses with honey to finish another lovely memorable evening.

Summary

Having an afternoon off from walking the Via Francigena was appreciated by everyone. Walking almost 60 miles during the first 3 days had been tough and it was good to rest our weary limbs!

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