Suffolk: Dunwich and Southwold

For the second year running Chris and I have just returned from a weekend spent in Beccles this time as part of a slightly reduced group of 14 of my step-Dads large family.

Due to work commitments Chris, my mum, my step-dad and I arrived in Beccles on the Friday evening at 9.30 pm having stopped half way for a tasty dinner in the Pakenham Fox, a typical country pub in a village called Pakenham! (And one to remember for another time)

Once we had checked in to our rooms, again this year in the Beccles Wetherspoons, we met with the rest of the family a few drinks in the bar (although it wasn’t such a crazy drunken affair as last year… not for us anyway 😂)

We had the whole day to fill on the Saturday and this year with the weather looking promising we took a 30 minute drive to the the east coast of England to visit Dunwich and then Southwold.

Dunwich was once a thriving medieval port and by the 11th century was the capital of the Kingdom of East Anglia. However thanks to a couple of huge storms in the 12th century and ongoing coastal erosion most of the original harbour and town has disappeared. Today all that is left is a small village with a population of around 200. Some people think of Dunwich as being Suffolks version of the lost city of Atlantis!

The main attraction of Dunwich seems to be its large pebbly beach which is popular with dog walkers. Another great attraction is the Flora Tea Rooms, a fairly large restaurant right on the beach and next to the large free car park. This was perfect for a fab pit stop where we sat outside in the warm weather enjoying coffee and cake. Flora Tea Rooms are well known for their fish and chips which is also noted for any future lunch or dinner time visits.

From Dunwich we drove for about 20 minutes to the much larger seaside town of Southwold.

Also on the North Sea, Southwold is famous for its pier and its colourful beach huts. It is considered an ‘upmarket’ seaside resort and is often listed in national media as being one of the most desirable places in England in which to live or retire. As a result, the house prices in Southwold are relatively high compared with other parts of the East of England.

Southwold Pier has a number of attractions including the usual amusement arcade at the entrance as well as shops and restaurants. The railings are lined with celebratory plaques where people can have a plaque created with a message, a memory or to commemorate an anniversary.

The Water Clock is another feature but this section of the pier is currently being structurally reinforced so the clock had been sent off for a service. Above is a photo from a previous visit to Southwold in September 2020 as we were tentatively emerging from Covid lockdowns!

The Water Clock was designed and made in 1998 as a water recycling feature. Water is pumped to the top of the clock and every 30 minutes the two figures ‘pee’. If Dunwich is Suffolks answer to Atlantis, this is Suffolks answer to the Manneken Pis, a famous bronze statue in Brussels! (The above picture was taken during a visit to Brussels in January 2004).

Another feature of the pier is the crazy mirrors – the above photo was taken with my young niece during another separate Southwold visit in August 2018.

Colourful beach huts line the promenade at Southwold and these can be hired if you wish to have somewhere to store your seaside accessories or want some shelter.

We were unable to walk the half mile or so from the pier to Southwold Town Centre as my parents have limited mobility so we drove through its pretty colourful streets full of little independent shops and restaurants.

Southwold is also home to the Adnams Brewery which offers tours and experiences.

On the way back to Beccles we stopped for a drink and a snack in the Three Horseshoes in North Cove, a large country pub and restaurant which was built in 1495. By now as we sat outside in the pub garden the sun was shinning at the beginning of a mini September heat wave! After a fairly average July and August this year, England is forecast temperatures of up to 30 degrees this early September week.

On the Saturday evening we enjoyed another fabulous dinner in Graze on the market square in Beccles. This time I had a starter of roasted Moroccan spice summer squash and a main of sea bass, crayfish & lobster bisque risotto and Chris had grilled sardines for his starter and celeriac tart tatin for his main. I didn’t take any food pictures this time, so above is a copy of the Graze photo from last year! But I cannot stress what a wonderful place this is, so go, go, go if you are in Beccles!